Author: Nelson

Genovation ControlPad for the K4

I often wish some buttons on a radio were easier to spot since many have two or three labels on or near them.  Also, typing frequencies using the radio’s number buttons can be very cumbersome.  It would be much easier to:

    • Type frequencies on a 10-key pad
    • Have most of the radio commands I want all in one place
    • Perform multiple actions (like split and unsplit) with one button

This can all be done with a Genovation ControlPad.  It also offers a less expensive way to remotely control your radio over a K-Pod or K4/0.

My good friend, Dave Cole NK7Z, did a great write-up in a post showing what he did, using a Raspberry Pi 4 and a small monitor.  I wanted to do the same, but with a smaller desktop footprint and spend less money.

I used the following:

    • Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W
    • Genovation ControlPad CP48
    • 3D printed stand
    • Modified USB-C to Ethernet cable

With my Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W, I found one of the Python libraries (telnetlib) was deprecated after Python v 3.13, so rather than install an older Python over a newer version on a newer Raspian distribution, I chose (because I don’t do Linux that well) to use download “2023-05-03-raspios-bullseye-armhf.img” using Raspberry Pi Imager, which also allows me to give it my home’s WiFi information.

I then installed Dave’s slightly modified Genovation Python script:

wget https://nf7z.net/genovation.py

Ran the script to give it the K4 serial number.

python3 genovation.py

Then exited the script, by typing Exit.

Setup the script to automatically start:

sudo nano /home/[username]/.bash_profile
python3 /home/[username]/genovation.py

In Raspi-config:

System options - Change hostname
System options - Boot to console w/ auto-login
Display options - Turned off screen blanking
Interface options - Turned on SSH & VNC
Advanced options - Expanded filesystem
Exit & reboot

The Genovation uses a proprietary 3 foot USB C to Ethernet cable. I tested the connections and discovered it’s wiring is simple, but does require more current than some older or cheaper USB cables have. Here’s the tested wiring diagram:

I found USB 3.0 cables had sufficiently thick enough wire to actually crimp in an RJ45 (Ethernet) connector.

I designed and 3D printed a base to hide the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W and added a USB C female connector w/ wires and soldered them onto the Pi. (3D file for CP48.)
   

Unlike Dave, I don’t do CW much, and I wanted the 10-key layout, so I modified the keyboard with this configuration and programmed the keys. The template and Genovation MacroMaster CPxx file are here.

It works very well!

Cable Entry Box

Living in the Pacific Northwest, we don’t get much lightning here; but even so, as I’ve purchased more expensive radio equipment, I’m still aware of the potential for lightning and smaller electrostatic buildup causing damage.  To prevent that, I’ve wanted to have an entry panel and box that was practical and nice.  It took about 1 & 1/2 years to slowly purchase parts and finally get to the project.

Since the lightning arresters were the most expensive portion of the project, I purchased over time three of Alpha  Delta’s Transi-Trap Surge Protectors are gas surge arresters.  I also went to a local metal supply company and purchased a thick sheet of copper.  Using a piece of cardboard first, I mapped out and mounted the arresters to figure out locations.  I wanted them to take as little room as possible, but leave room to get fingers between them easily to attach cables.

The box was more difficult.  I found a nice one, but after it arrived, discovered it was too small.  The bend radius for cables is very important–especially if you run a lot of power through cable.  I often run 500 watts, so I after looking up the bend radius of my RG-8x cable, I made a wire template with a quarter of an inch larger radius, just to be on the safe side.

What I forgot, however, was to also consider that the PL259’s and reducers take up another 1.5 inches on each side–making the space needed 3 inches taller, so I needed another box.

I thought about buying something cheap or used from an electrical installation, but wanted it water tight and look nice (for the neighbors as well).  “Cheap ham syndrome” is where a ham spends more time and actually more money on a DIY project trying to be cheap, buying or finding used parts that then need extra parts, paint or modifications to fix or adapt to make the project work well.

To avoid this, all my parts were what I needed and wanted–like making sure the box had base plate standoffs.  Adding them myself would put more holes in the box and the outside wall, or it would require screwheads or nuts on the back of the box to hold the standoffs in place, which would cause the box to stick out more and make it harder to make water tight.

I found a nice metal box that was 12″ x 10″ x 6″.  It already had a base plate with stand offs, so I replaced the base plate with  my copper plate.  I chose to put a wall hole in the back instead of adding something else on the wall for cable entry.

After mounting the box with the plate, I made sure everything was labeled well.

I put Penetrox (a non-toxic oxide inhibitor joint compound and lubricant) on every connector and every base plate screw.  I also made a special face plate for the inside of the house by drilling holes in a blank electrical face plate.

After sealing the box to the outside, I’m pleased with the final results: